How To Use Schwarzkopf Igora Zero Amm!

Quick “Just Tell Me the Ratio” Guide

For those who just want the numbers (I see you):

Standard Shades

• Mix 1:1 (one part permanent hair colour creme + one part developer)

• Use Igora Royal Oil Developer at 3% (10 vol), 6% (20 vol), or 9% (30 vol), depending on your goal

Highlift 10-Series

• Mix 1:2 (one part color + two parts developer)

• Usually paired with 9% (30 vol) Oil Developer

Processing & Prep

• Apply on dry, unwashed hair (yes, unwashed hair)

• Develop 30–45 minutes

• Emulsify, then rinse hair thoroughly after the development time (and if it ever gets in the eyes, rinse immediately)

Let’s make mixing feel simple, not scary.

What Is Schwarzkopf Igora Zero Amm?

Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Zero Amm is a permanent oxidative hair color that gives natural, true-to-tone color with long-lasting results, plus up to 100% white hair coverage (hello, stubborn white hair) without ammonia or that classic hair-color smell following you around. It’s very much a professional Igora Zero Amm designed for a clean, reliable salon service workflow.

Why “Zero Ammonia” Matters

No ammonia doesn’t mean no chemistry; it just means zero compromise on performance while avoiding the unpleasant ammonia odor. That “zero compromise” vibe is basically the whole point of Schwarzkopf Professional's positioning here.

How the Technology Affects Mixing

Igora Zero Amm uses Phytolipid Technology: specific pigment mixes plus a blend of natural micronised oils to help with even pigment penetration and enhanced performance. The oils, grape seed oil and apricot kernel oil, help the formula spread nicely and support moisture balance (you’ll even see wording like the oils envelop the hair and support the moisture balance inside for optimal care performance). Translation: the line performs best when you follow the ratios and don’t freestyle.

Developer 101: What It Does (and Why Volume Matters)

Think of the developer as the “engine starter” for your color. It opens the cuticle (just enough), activates the dye, and decides how much lift or deposit you’ll get based on what your client’s hair actually needs.

10 / 20 / 30 Volume, Explained

• 10 vol (3%) → mostly deposit, subtle shift, perfect for toning or refreshing

• 20 vol (6%) → stronger deposit + some lift, the classic “let’s color this properly” choice

• 30 vol (9%) → more lift for brighter results; ideal for highlifts

When to Use Which

• 10 vol / 3% → minimal lift, mostly deposit; great for refresh, deepening, or toning

• 20 vol / 6% → standard permanent color results; reliable for white/grey coverage when paired right

• 30 vol / 9% → more lift than 20 vol; the go-to for 10-series highlifts in Igora Zero

What You’ll Need Before You Mix

Let’s get you set up so mixing feels smooth, not like a chaotic kitchen experiment.

Tools

• Bowl: Use a proper mixing bowl with measurements for consistency, especially if you touch up roots every 4–6 weeks.

• Brush: A brush that gives control is key, especially around the hairline.

• Scale: For repeatable results, a scale is your best friend.

Safety Basics

• Always wear suitable gloves

• Protect clothes and surfaces

• Avoid contact with the eyes; if it happens, rinse immediately

• Hair dyes can cause severe allergic reactions → patch test when needed

• Do not use on persons under 16

• Don’t use on eyelashes/eyebrows

• If there’s a rash, or a sensitive/irritated/damaged scalp, skip it

• Fun-but-real fact: a temporary black henna tattoo can increase allergy risk

(Also, if you’re ingredient-curious: some packs/lists show things like sodium cetearyl sulfate, sodium chloride, and chondrus crispus powder, so if you’re sensitive, it’s worth scanning the box and doing that patch test.)

Step-by-Step: How to Mix Igora Zero Amm with Developer

Here’s the checklist you can actually follow, no textbook energy.

Step 1: Choose Your Developer Strength

• Going same level or darker / refreshing? → 3% or 6%

• Covering grey/white hair and want a solid deposit? → 6%

• Using 10-series highlift? → 9% (and a different ratio)

• Always use Igora Royal Oil Developer as intended

  • Quick note so you don’t mix systems: Igora Vibrance Activator Lotion 1.9% (activator lotion 1.9 6 / lotion 1.9 6 vol) is for demi services, not your Zero Amm permanent system.

Step 2: Measure Your Color

Weighing in grams is easiest:

• Small root touch-up → 30g

• Fuller application → 60g

Step 3: Measure Your Developer

• Standard shades 1:1 → 30g color: 30g developer, 60g: 60g

• 10-series highlifts 1:2 → 30g color: 60g developer, 60g: 120g

Step 4: Mix to a Creamy Consistency

Smooth, uniform, creamy, no streaks, no lumps.

Step 5: Apply Immediately

Mix → apply. Apply Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Zero Amm to dry, unwashed hair.

Step 6: Process

Let it develop 30–45 minutes (set a timer, you’ll thank me).

Step 7: Emulsify + Rinse Thoroughly

After development: add a little warm water, emulsify around the hairline/scalp, then rinse hair thoroughly.

Step 8: Post-Color Care

For optimal tone hold and shine, reach for Bonacure Color Freeze or the Fibre Clinix Vibrancy ranges after rinsing, especially if you want that “fresh salon” finish.

Real-World Mixing Examples

Example 1: Root Retouch + White Hair Coverage

• Goal: cover regrowth and blend white hair

• Mix: 1:1

• Developer: usually 6% (20 vol)

• Tip: keep it creamy so it stays put (no forehead drips!)

Example 2: All-Over Same-Level or Darker

• Goal: refresh color, deepen slightly, enhance shine

• Mix: 1:1

• Developer: 3% (10 vol) or 6% (20 vol)

Example 3: Highlift Blonde (10-Series)

• Goal: brighter result

• Mix: 1:2

• Developer: 9% (30 vol)

• Time: 30–45 minutes

• Tip: this is “follow the map” territory, no freestyle.

Example 4: Custom “Creative Mixes”

Igora Zero Amm is great for custom formulas because you can build specific pigment mixes for different coloring techniques (root melts, quick partials, grey blending, etc.). If you want more anchor/coverage, try the classic pro move:

• 2 parts target shade + 1 part Natural (same level)
  That little adjustment can push coverage closer to 100% on stubborn white hair.

Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)

Yes… Everyone hits these at least once.

Runny Mix

• Why: too many developers or inaccurate measuring

• What happens: drips, weak coverage, faster fading

• Fix: stick to the correct ratio (1:1 or 1:2) and use a scale if you can

Thick/Pasty Mix

• Why: not enough developers or not mixing thoroughly

• What happens: hard to spread, patchy color

• Fix: measure carefully and mix until creamy

Wrong Developer Strength

• Why: “More volume must be better,” not true

• What happens: unnecessary lift, warmth, scalp discomfort, or off results

• Fix: choose a developer based on your goal and follow the highlift system for 10-series

Not Mixing Enough Product

• Why: trying to “save product.”

• What happens: missed spots, uneven color, stress

• Fix: plan your quantity and mix extra if needed

Waiting Too Long After Mixing

• Why: distractions happen

• What happens: less predictable performance

• Fix: mix only when ready to apply. Technical guidance emphasizes immediate application

Pro Tips for Sensitive Scalps and Shinier Results

If you’re sensitive or just want the best results, these tips help.

Scalp Comfort

• Use a scalp protector for sensitive scalps

• Example: Schwarzkopf Professional Scalp Protect Serum creates a gentle barrier before coloring to minimize irritation

Post-Color pH & Bond Care

• After coloring, “close it up and calm it down.”

• Example: Schwarzkopf Hair Sealer pH Neutralizing Treatment stops the oxidative process and helps lock in vibrancy

• Not mandatory, but a great finishing step to get that pro look

Strand & Patch Tests

• New shade, formula changes, or sensitive history?

  • Strand test → predicts tone

  • Patch test → predicts reaction

• Better safe than itchy!

Summary

Mixing Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Zero Amm is basically two rules: 1:1 for standard shades, 1:2 for the 10-series, and always pair it with Igora Royal Oil Developer. Apply to dry, unwashed hair, let it develop 30–45 minutes, then emulsify and rinse thoroughly. Follow that, and you’ll get the “zero compromise” experience Igora Zero Amm is built for: reliable coverage (including white hair coverage), clean processing, and true-to-tone results that last.

Frequently Questions Asked

What is the mixing ratio for Igora Zero Amm with developer?

Most Igora Zero Amm shades mix 1:1 with developer, while 10-series high-lifts typically mix 1:2.

Can I use any developer with Igora Zero Amm?

For best performance, use the developer system the line is designed for, typically Igora Royal Oil Developer (and related system activators referenced in the brand materials).

Should I apply Igora Zero Amm on wet or dry hair?

The classic application guidance is to apply the mixture to dry hair immediately after preparation.

How long do I leave Igora Zero Amm on the hair?

Typical development time is 30–45 minutes, depending on the service and hair needs.

How do I get better grey/white hair coverage with Igora Zero Amm?

If coverage is stubborn, the technical guidance notes you can reach up to 100% white coverage when mixing with a Natural shade (2:1), a common pro approach to “anchor” fashion tones.